Wind, rain and fog in Durness – the Furthest Northwesterly town on the Scottish mainland situated on the North Atlantic. We turn our trusted, and now endeared, bicycles Eastward in the morning toward Thurso and shall dream for the wind to make a 180 turn in the night, the Northernmost Scottish Highlands to not be so high and a warm Inn and hearty meal to be waiting for us at the end of the day.
We’ve spent an extra day in Ullapool and can barely bring ourselves to leave. A seal fell in love with Sage and he began fishing off the pier, catching 3 mackerel this morning before he pole snapped (may have caught a whale). Weather is fantastic and its the most beautiful harbor town yet! Cycling toward the furthest NW corner of Scotland this morning and the most remote area of the country. 65 miles to the next grocery store and 200 miles to the ferry to Stromness in the Orkneys – Our final destination. Will post details soon.
We’ve been surrounded by the arms of the Outer Hebrides for the past week. Many new stories, faces and photos coming in the next few days!
We rolled into Oban with around 375 miles on the odometer and spent a couple of days resting/working here. Despite the fact that the city is bustling with fishing boats, small businesses and tourists, it still retains the character of a slight outpost. There are no national or international store or restaurant chains to be found (thankfully) and you have to fight for a corner in only a couple of hotel lobbies for a wifi connection to the outside world. You can eat all the haggis you want along with your sausages and porridge in the morning as well.
The Scottish is now thicker with a touch of Gaelic here and there and somehow I feel like we’re going back in time, but successfully so, as we seem to understand everything everyone is saying to us when I’m not even sure they’re speaking English at all any longer. At this rate we might all be speaking a long-forgotten Norse dialect and wearing Tartan clothing by the time we reach the Orkneys.
Highlands in the MIst, Outside of Oban
What is it about Scotland that stirs visions of romance, longing, and even comfort and familiarity in many of us? Is it the stories we’ve heard as children about a bygone era? I am drawn over and over again to this small island and yet I still find it hard to explain why the more I know it, the more I love it. Around every corner you meet someone you feel you’ve known your entire life and the landscape continually evokes feelings of wonder, mystery and intrigue. –Scotland, a captivating land that has held countless dreams of those that have wandered its hills, tilled its fields and fought to keep it their home. The soil is soaked with the blood of many and yet Scotland continues to hold firmly the hearts of all who have come to know it, including mine.
Every once in a great while I come across a small cabin restaurant in the woods where I immediately feel right at home and after departing, think fondly of for many years. The Wild Rowan Cafe in Daravich is just such a place. Nestled in the forests on the West side of Loch Awe, Andy (back to his home of Scotland after many years in Australia) and his family run a small cafe that also is considered the post office, general store, and the all-around gathering place for most of the area. Drop in, have a laugh, discuss history or geneology or the mysterious black panther that was recently seen roaming the woods (?!) – then enjoy an all-day breakfast, a meat pie or homemade treacle scones with clotted cream. You won’t want to leave either.
For those of you who’ve missed it, Sage and I cycle in the early part of the day and I work in the afternoon/evenings everyday on-line. Due to the time difference in the Americas, it allows me the opportunity to cycle in the daylight and work on my computer when it’s dark. Much more difficult/dangerous the other way around! If I were to cycle in the Americas I would have to cycle from 5-7A before work and then again from 6-9P after work (or something like that), and lets face it, that isn’t very realistic. How do other people train with a demanding daytime job like mine? Here in the UK I can cycle from 8A-3 or 4P straight and then work until 11P. I get the benefit of the exercise and the focused time in the ‘office’ when daylight is in limited supply. For a short period of time it works, but I’m getting a bit worn down.
I’m taking a vacation starting Friday as we’re headed to the Outer Hebrides. I want to be able to focus on taking photographs for my mother. She has always wanted to go there, and she isn’t able to travel this year. I also want to spend more quality time with Sage while on our adventure without the need to work each night.
We’re taking a ferry first thing Friday morning to the islands of the Outer Hebrides which are in the far Western reaches of Northwest Scotland. We hope to build a campfire on the beach and see billions of stars way out there in the middle of the North Atlantic – just our bicycles, our tent, our love for our family and friends and each other. It’s going to be awesome.
